Pintores da vida moderna: uma perspectiva crítica sobre o homem contemporâneo e o consumo de moda masculina

Hollanda, Bernardo Borges Buarque de
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This dissertation proposes a reflection on symbolic and material aspects of the consumption of masculine fashion in contemporary societies. It investigates a possible conceptual parallelism between the eighteenth-century dandies and the so-called contemporary dandies, based on the relation between the diffusion of aesthetic ideals in the so-called "project of Modernity" in the nineteenth century and the phenomenon of the aesthetization of masculine life in the New Millennium capitalist societies, called "consumer societies". The research presents an ethnography of male consumers of the Hugo Boss brand in a shopping mall in the Village Mall (RJ), investigating the creation of (according to Bourdieu's theory) "codes" for "appropriation" of consumer goods, discursive works of a reprint of dandyism and flânerie contextualized in their campaigns. When we study the relationship between an aesthetic experience permeated by fashion consumption and a prevailing socioeconomic system, we observe that this relationship can not be explained by the simplistic reasoning of an "oppressor / oppressed" logic: it is necessary to relativize the autonomy issues among the agents of consumption privileging a triadic relationship between three intrinsic aspects of this phenomenon: the aesthetic, the material and the discursive.

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